April recap, part 2

Today is day one of three for my school’s midterm exams, which means it is the first official “deskwarming” day for me. Deskwarming refers to the practice of coming to school and sitting at your desk all day, even though you know you have no classes to teach, because your contract stipulates an 8 hour workday. I have had a couple unofficial deskwarming days, in which I expected to teach classes, but due to circumstances ended up not teaching any. But this is the first time I came to school knowing full well that I would be there for no other reason than to be there. So far I have finished one book I’ve been reading, caught up on a couple blogs I frequent, exchanged texts with strangers*, and fastidiously kept my desk warm. So now I’ll tell you some more about the month that was April.

*I got cash out of the ATM on campus this morning and absentmindedly left my debit card sitting on the machine. I got a text from someone I don’t know notifying me of this (I don’t know how she got my number). This stranger gave me the number of the other stranger that has my card, who affably agreed to leave my card at our program’s office. At no point in the process did my heart rate increase. We have heard other anecdotal evidence regarding the safety of personal possessions in Korea, and I’ll add this to the list. Theft just doesn’t seem to be a problem here. 

Though it happened in late March, I’ll include a note about the Seoul Nuclear Security Summit. The Summit actually took place on Monday and Tuesday, March 26-27, but most of the world leaders arrived on Sunday, including our own president Obama. We had gone to Seoul that morning for church, as usual, but we also hoped to run into Obama somehow and maybe have coffee with him. That didn’t happen (turns out he was touring the DMZ and talking to troops that morning), but the day was memorable because of the massive amount of police we saw gathered to quell any potential protesters. Keep in mind, by this point we had yet to see a police car, and had only seen a few policemen walking in public spaces…in two full months. So imagine our surprise when we emerged from our subway station to see this:

Holy police buses, Batman!

There were literally thousands of police on this street

The pictures are but a small sample of the total force (I would have taken more, but I didn’t know how a foreigner openly snapping pictures of police would be interpreted, especially since they were there partly to protect some major world leaders). These police buses were lined up end to end on both sides of the street for at least six city blocks, plus a group stationed at each subway exit. And the Summit wasn’t even happening nearby. Our church happens to be across the street from City Hall, which is apparently the spot to protest things in Seoul, if you want to protest. So all of these police were there to keep the peace, just in case protesters showed up. We saw just one silent protester that afternoon, holding a sign about Jesus and damnation or something. Needless to say, we felt pretty safe that day.

Speaking of Seoul, three weeks ago we were there for church on Sunday and met up with a friend from our TESOL class, Ansu. That day we decided to explore the KOEX mall, which is a huge mall attached to the KOEX convention center, the location where the Nuclear Summit was held (we actually had planned to visit there the Sunday I just described, but the entire KOEX area was closed). After a lackluster food court lunch, we were excited to visit the kimchi museum located in the bottom floor of the mall. Kimchi, if you haven’t read our previous posts, is the national food of Korea. It is eaten at every meal, which is evidenced by the kimchi body odor that is not uncommon to smell in a crowd of Koreans. It has deep roots in the culture and history of Korea. And the most common complaint that you hear from Koreans abroad is, “I miss my kimchi.” While neither of us are crazy about kimchi, we enjoy it as a small part of meals, and think it is a healthy and distinctive food that Korea is rightfully proud of, so we were eager to learn all about it.

Well, it turns out the kimchi museum is about as large as you would expect a museum to be that is dedicated solely to fermented cabbage (actually, kimchi can be made from just about any vegetable, and from a variety of seafood, but cabbage is the most common). We learned how it is made, its history, and its health benefits. And we took advantage of this great photo op:

Tera is ready for some kimchi

Don’t drop that kimchi!

Ansu eagerly tastes the kimchi, disappointed that it isn’t real

And…that was it. I don’t know why I expected something else — like maybe a kimchi themed ride, or a make your own kimchi station, or maybe a giant costumed kimchi character for the kids — but I know I wanted more. The biggest disappointment was the tasting station. When I heard they had a tasting section, I imagined something akin to the World of Coca-Cola in Atlanta. What I got instead was this:

The tasting room

That’s a total of 7 varieties of kimchi, each of which I eat as part of my school lunches on a regular basis. Nothing exotic or exciting. And this wasn’t even authentic homemade kimchi — they had the store-bought packages in the refrigerator next to it.

On a completely unrelated note, April featured the local election cycle here. How do we know this, you may ask, since we usually stay willfully ignorant of politics and its unsavory trappings? Because of the loud music and dancing on the street corners, of course! That’s right, instead of slanderous, puerile, and worthless television spots, the primary political advertisement seems to be setting up on a busy street corner, playing music, smiling, waving, and dancing (from what I’ve read, television ads would be too expensive for the local politician). Each candidate is associated with a number (corresponding to the ballot) and a color, and while his team of supporters is dancing to the music and waving, he is either shaking hands with people or talking through a microphone to passersby. It is a wonderful way to campaign, and not just because it makes you smile instead of hate the political process. Because Korea is such a densely populated country, the local politician can actually meet a lot of his constituents by doing this every day for two weeks, and it is very effective at disseminating his name and face in a positive way. Granted, this was the local election — the presidential election is later this year, and will surely be more hostile. But it was a refreshing view of politics, and it was fun while it lasted.

This corner outside of the nearby LotteMart was continually occupied

Holy Week was a different experience for us here. Because our church is so small, the only service we had was an Easter sunrise service (the Korean congregation had other events during the week, but, well, they were in Korean, and a bit too far away for any weeknight). Because it is at least 45 minutes away (by bullet train), and trains don’t start running until the sun rises, attending the Easter service was impossible for us.

In addition, Easter kind of snuck up on us because in Korea it is only celebrated as a religious holiday. I know it sounds weird, but without seeing the candy displays in the stores, there wasn’t the same kind of anticipation. By the way, I’m pretty sure that’s an indicator of something gone wrong — when celebrating the hope of all creation just isn’t the same without Cadbury eggs.

Nevertheless, we still were able to gather and celebrate with a small group of friends over a wonderful potluck brunch. We had our own little Easter service, then dyed quail eggs (all of the chicken eggs are brown here, so dying them wouldn’t have worked). The quail eggs turned out really cool.

First time dying quail eggs

The dye kit came courtesy of a timely care package

I may prefer this look to the traditional chicken eggs

That is all for now.

-Michael

April Recap, Part 1

Spring has sprung (finally!) in S. Korea. Flowers are bloomin’ wherever we look, and the new greenery serves as a nice contrast to Korea’s staple of gray, concrete buildings. I myself haven’t worn my wool coat in a week. Like a butterfly freed from the cocoon, if you will.

In honor of spring, we attended the Buk Gil (a local high school) Cherry Blossom Festival. Unfortunately, because Korea’s winter was longer and colder, the blossoms came a little late this year. When they did decide to arrive, it rained for a couple of days, so Korea didn’t get to enjoy the blossoms for as long as years past. We did manage to snap a few shots with the trees that were in-bloom, though.

Cherry blossom festival

Beautiful cherry blossoms

These aren’t cherry blossoms, but they were just as beautiful

 

Saturday, April 28th our program took all of the teachers to Seoul for a cultural trip. We visited the beautiful palace called Changdeokgung (창덕궁), and afterwards ate Korean food.* Then we saw the No.1 Best Korean performance Nanta! which you can see a trailer for here.  The performers were amazing, but can either make you feel horrible about yourself or inspire you to finally give P90X a try. One of the performers had muscles on his muscles – quite impressive. The show is like a Korean chef-comedy version of Stomp, but they seemed to weave in every aspect of entertainment in that two hours, including a mini-romance story, glow-in-the-dark head streamers, magic, and audience participation. Speaking of which, I had the pleasure of being called onstage to participate in a cooking race. I won, and got a great souvenir picture from Nanta! *Sidenote: we were a little disappointed/confused by this one. We eat Korean food for most of our meals, so a nice gesture would have been taking us to eat American food – like burritos or a nice curry place – but it was a SK cultural trip after all.

A group shot at the palace

I believe this was the throne room

Detail of the intricate roof

Many beautiful and aged trees throughout the palace complex

Also many flowers in bloom

Nanta!

 

When we came to Korea, we were saddened by the thought of our gleaning food and dumpster-diving days taking a hiatus.  That was before we found these just laying beside the trashcan on the sidewalk:

One man’s trash is another man’s dinner

Perfectly good sweet potatoes. We gathered these last month, gave some to our neighbors, and we still have sweet potatoes.

I woke up pretty excited the morning of April 24th. My school’s mid-terms were starting so I had prepared a day filled with activities to stave off the dulls of desk-warming: postcards to write, origami mobiles to make, word searches, books to finish reading, blog posts. Shortly after waking I realized a little detail that threatened to damper my productiveness: I couldn’t see very well. Even with glasses, my eyes could not focus on anything, proving reading to be impossible. Frustrated, I finished getting ready for the day and skipped breakfast because I was nauseated. On the bus, I noticed a light headache. By the time the bus stopped, my peripheral vision was gone, I could only see in patches, and I relied on a woman next to me to know when to cross the street to my school. The migraine hit when I sat down at my desk. I must say, it caught me off guard. I have gotten one or two every month for over two years, but the warning signs have always been a peculiar light headache first, so I know when to take medication and go to sleep before the crazy stuff starts happening. This time the vision went first, apparently a common migraine precursor called scintillating scotoma that you can read about here.

I went to the nurse who gave me medicine, which did nothing, due to my nausea.   This is one of those situations where I wished I was back in the States. In Korea, if you are sick at work, you say, “I need to go to the hospital.” No one leaves work to “go home.” Instead, you are expected to work unless you are on death’s door, hence the hospital bit. I gave myself 45 minutes of laying in the nurse’s office to get better before I asked to leave to go to the hospital. Before I left, my head teacher had to get permission from the vice principal and a form signed. While I waited for the red tape, I threw-up in the bathroom. When I left, I was in no state to ride the bus or walk anywhere alone, but I didn’t know if it was appropriate to ask for someone to drive me, and I was embarrassed to be sick.

On the bus, I asked a woman to open the window and then switched seats with her in case I needed to throw-up again. I must say my Charades skills are becoming quite good, because through all of my hand motions she quickly got the picture and switched seats. I held it until I got to my stop, then went into Lotte Mart and threw-up again before I walked to the hospital.

This is one of those situations where I was glad to be in Korea. At the doctor’s office, I had no wait. The nurses quickly took my alien card, filled out my information for me, and told me to have a seat. I had barely taken my seat before my name was called. The doctor spoke excellent English, listened intently to my problem, asked me my migraine history and how I would like to be treated. Afterward, she directed me back to the counter, and told me a nurse would start my IV quickly. The last time I went to the hospital for a severe migraine I ran up a nearly $3,000 bill for an IV and a six hour stay. Michael’s fainting catastrophe cost $7,000 that day. If we had had any insurance besides the protection of our contracted AmeriCorps*VISTA emergency coverage, or no insurance at all, we would have had a difficult year. As any human-operated entity, Korea’s socialized healthcare has its flaws.  But its benefits greatly outweigh its costs.  At the counter, for my future IV, doctor’s visit and stay (I stayed an hour and a half, but I don’t think that was actually factored-in), I paid roughly $20. The price may not seem to be something to get excited about, until you learn that I did not have my insurance card with me. This is the beauty of Korea’s healthcare. In its most basic form, it is nondiscriminatory, affordable medical treatment for all. Even for me, the foreigner.

On April 25th I went to my third teacher dinner. When explained to me a week before, the dinner consisted of visiting a nice village about an hour away to watch the sunset, have dinner, and come back to Cheonan around 7pm. It sounded nice, it really did.

My head teacher backed out a few minutes before departure. This should have been my first clue. We piled onto a classy bus and were given snack packs. We rode for an hour until we stopped at a renovated, historical hut, where we piled out in the rain, watched a 30 minute documentary in Korean and piled back on the bus. I received no explanation, other than it was about a man who either wrote Korean poetry or directed Korean movies. We rode another 20 minutes until we arrived at the Hyundai Steel Mill. I would like to clarify that this factory produced steel for Hyundai cars, not actual cars. I’m not going to pretend that I was even remotely excited about this part of our journey, but strangely none of the other teachers seemed very enthused, either. I did some digging and discovered that one of the math teachers had chosen to tour the mill, apparently oblivious to the fact that others, less excited about the steel-making process, would be coming to tour the mill as well.

Feigning excitement over the steel mill

We arrived to dinner at 6pm.  Dinner was sashimi (raw fish) and other seafood, but I was optimistic. That was before someone brought out the bowls of live octopus and began boiling them to death in the shallow pot sitting in front of me. At one point, an octopus tried to climb out of the bowl onto the table. I liked the way his mind worked, and started scanning for any way I could make my escape. He was put in the pot next, so I remained seated on the floor.

Octopuses dying, and cooking, before my very eyes

The food didn’t stop coming after that: soju (a cheap distilled liquor), crab (not what you would normally expect), soju, another soup featuring a whole fish (that had sharp teeth), soju, and a plate of chopped raw octopus tentacles (still squirming) which my fellow teachers daintily picked up with their chopsticks and popped in their mouth.  Twenty minutes later the tentacle bits were still squirming. I ate a couple of pieces of sashimi, a few clams and got a teacher to request a side of grilled mushrooms for me three times.

When the men had had enough soju, we made our way to the pier. It was raining and we had missed our sunset, but what I could make out of the ocean was lovely. I got in about 10 pm, tired and hungry. I vented to my husband. I also promised myself I would not go on another teacher outing. Then I recalled some of the reasons that I wanted to come to Korea in the first place: experience another culture, become more flexible, and generally grow as a person. Michael and I will only be on this side of the world for two or three years. We should welcome new experiences and take the bad with the good:  the steel mill with the lovely ocean. I will remind myself of this the next time I attend a teacher dinner. But I still don’t have to eat squirming octopus tentacles.

 

- Tera

We are teachers — mega post

We have been teaching for just over a month now. As we have grown accustomed to our new jobs and new schedules we have neglected this blog, so it has been over a month since we posted. Since we teach at different schools and have different experiences, this will be a co-authored post. So here are our thoughts after teaching for six weeks:

Tera: It’s hard to believe that we have been teaching for nearly six weeks. Thus far, my teaching experience here has been fantastic. I’m not going to pretend that I haven’t had difficulty with over-chatty middle schoolers, latecomers, and a couple of well-intentioned lesson plans that flopped. I base the word “fantastic” on the feeling I get when I walk into school: This will be a fun day.  And if it’s not, at least I will have some funny stories to tell Michael when I get home.

Without further ado, here are some thoughts, highlights, awkward experiences, etc, while teaching in Korea:

The English Language

* Have you ever realized how difficult the English language is? Adverbs that are second nature to say for native English speakers become tricky for someone trying to learn English with grammatical rules. For instance, in English, nap can be used as both a verb and a noun. If I say in class, “I took a nap,” nap, to my students, now also becomes an inanimate object that I probably stole from someone. Therefore, I have had the unpleasant experience of explaining that diarrhea is  something that you “have” or “get,” not something that you “do.”

* Since English is our first language, we are a little lazy with it, and/or use it more loosely. For example, we commonly use the phrase “as well as” as “also”. When my head teacher asked me for help with a question on a test she was making, I didn’t understand why it was necessary the word “French” had to come first in “She can speak French as well as English.” It took a little while to remember that “as well as” literally means “as good as,” not just “also.”

*Although I teach English, I can feel my English level declining. I speak slowly and use the most basic vocabulary in the classroom. Please don’t be offended if, when Skyping, I pause to look for the “nod of understanding”; speak in short, slow sentences that begin with “First,” “Second,” etc; stop to explain big words like “bottom” or “comfortable”; or start acting out every said verb.

School Life

*The public transportation in Korea is easy, convenient, and  all-around awesome. I overcame my motion sickness after the first two weeks here, and now I have no complaints about the bus system. It typically takes me 35-40 minutes to get to school in the mornings, but because my stop is the first stop for the bus route, I always get a seat on the bus in the mornings. I have extra time to read, and it is much cheaper than driving a car. I won’t go into how the U.S. needs to adopt a better public transportation system, but it does, period.

*My school blares classical music outside in the mornings until classes start. It’s a nice way to start the day, and until a few weeks ago, I always felt rather privileged. Then I heard about how another expat’s school has classical music cued for each time someone walks into the bathroom – now that’s privileged.

*I definitely got the longer end of the stick when it comes to schools. I teach at one of the higher ranking middle schools in Cheonan, I have my own classroom, and my head teacher (my supervisor at my school) is phenomenal. Not only is her English quite advanced, but she is also sarcastic and makes inside jokes in English. We have become good friends and have recently started teaching each other one new Korean/English word a day. So far, I have taught her “quiche”, “ambidextrous”, “with child”, “glisten”, and “shriveled” – which naturally led to her learning “raisin”. She has taught me the Korean words for “snow”, “nose”, “lips”, “head” (also how to call someone a “stupid-head”), and “eyes”. I intend to be able to name the body from the bust up in Korean by the end of next week. Either that, or just how to better berate someone.

*Lunch became hit or miss two weeks ago. De-boning fish with chopsticks is a lot harder than it looks.

*Elementary schools have grades 1-6. Middle schools have grades 1-3, while high school and college has grades/years 1-4. I teach 2nd and 3rd grades. For 2nd grade I teach Listening and Speaking, and for third grade I teach fun-time/project-time/whatever fun and useful English information/technique I want. My 2nd graders are divided into 3 levels: Advanced, Intermediate and Low. My advanced classes are usually around 30 students, my intermediate around 25, and my low around 15. My 3rd grade is not divided into levels, so I usually have about 35 in each class.

* I have six different Korean co-teachers, although the majority of my class load is divided between two of them. I plan the lesson and facilitate while the Korean teacher translates anything that the students didn’t understand (i.e. game directions, questions I ask) and disciplines while I teach. More on discipline later.

*I also teach two conversation/American culture classes on Tuesday and Wednesdays for 19 first and second graders. These are my favorite classes as their English is more advanced, I see the same students twice a week, and I can do more specialized teaching and more fun projects in the classroom. I will show some of the projects in a later post.

Students

*I see 600 students every week. Almost all have black hair (some dye it) are Asian in appearance (p.c., right?) and they wear mandatory school uniforms. Thus far, I can name with confidence four of my students.

* The students, for the most part are very friendly and funny. The majority of them want to learn, although I do get the occasional “too cool for school” kid. This student is often the class clown and it shows in his English ability.

* Middle school is the time when Koreans adopt their strenuous study habits. Many of my students wake up at 6:30 am, get to school at 8:20am, are in classes until 4:30 pm, have dinner on the way to hagwon (after school English/Math/Science academies), get home from hagwon at 10 pm or later, and stay up studying until midnight or later. Then they wake up the next morning and do it again. Their lives are extremely stressful, and Korea’s suicide rate among  teens and college students is evidence of this. I try to remember the pressure that is always on my students and work to keep my class fun and exciting, even if I am teaching new vocabulary.

*When students walk past a teacher, they always bow low. About half of my students bow to me in the halls and the classroom, the other students give an exaggerated (two-handed!) wave and say “hello”, because they have learned this as an American greeting. One student, however, stops when he see me and salutes. Your guess is as good as mine.

* Candy: the ultimate reward when you are a student. A stamp in a textbook that you can accumulate and use to obtain future candy: the second most ultimate reward. I use these as prizes for games, good behavior and sometimes just as a reward for raising their hand and saying anything. I usually give stamps, but occasionally I choose to give a small piece of candy. Five stamps gets a student a larger piece of candy. Side note: Technically the larger piece of candy is just a sucker, relatively the same size as a small piece of candy with a stick attached, but they haven’t figured this out yet.

* Pronunciation Bees are the best. Why? This sentence: “Larry, I really think you should rake the leaves before it rains.”   It cuts the students left by at least half every time.

* Many of my students are quite shy. But if they’re not, they tend to be very direct and enjoy giving sincere compliments and fashion advice. Take this one for example: ”Oh teacher, you very beautiful. If you wear the contacts, more beautiful!” Thanks?

Discipline

* Even though it seems to be acceptable for students to come to class a few minutes late, I do not tolerate it. I learned during the first two weeks how frustrating it is to be in the middle of teaching and then have a group of 5 boys come into your classroom yelling, ” He-llllooo Tera teacher!” I now have 1-10 written on the board (they have 10  minutes to get to each class) and when students come in late, I take the time they are late and cross off the numbers. The whole class then has to stay late after the bell rings. Because Koreans tend to be very group/community oriented people, this strategy works well.

* It is not uncommon in Korea for teachers to hit students. Luckily, my co- teachers only pop a kid on the head or the hand if he is talking too much, not paying attention, etc, and it rarely hurts them. It is mainly used to get their attention or embarrass them. The students accept it, sometimes even giggling as they are made to hold out their hand. Although some schools/other departments have teachers that hit very hard, I am grateful that I have never witnessed this form of punishment from my Korean co-teachers. Earlier this week, a co-teacher of mine asked a group of very late latecomers to go to the back of the class and hold the plank position for about 12 minutes. I don’t think they will be late next week.

* If the students are having trouble quieting down in my classroom I try to use yelling as an absolute last resort (the kids are talking so loud they can’t hear anything unless you yell it), which has led to some creative ways in taking back the control. Usually I stop talking and look at the perpetrators. This embarrasses them and they stop. If they are repeat offenders however,  after giving them at least two chances I make them switch seats which is probably the ultimate discipline as I have singled them out in class. If it is more than a few students talking, however, I stop talking and look at the floor. Usually a student will see me and yell “Be quiet!” to the other students. I love when this happens, as it makes my job easier. When this doesn’t happen, I start whispering directions to Simon Says: “If you can hear me, touch your nose. If you can hear me, touch your ear, etc.” This usually gets their attention quickly and the class quiets down. I also use clapping as a technique: I will clap a short tune and the students will copy it, thus getting their attention and allotting me the short time between when we finish clapping and when their mouths are still closed to speak. Once or twice I have asked them to put their hands on their head. Surprisingly, this works well at getting them to quiet down – a definite difference between American students and Korean students – remember that I teach middle school children. All in all, although I certainly discipline, I also have the Korean co-teacher who continually disciplines as I teach, which is a wonderful help.

Some of my students and half of my classroom

More of my students

Michael: Without having read Tera’s portion at all (so sorry if I repeat), here are my thoughts:

My first day: Fortunately, my first day did not involve any classes. I had an introductory class prepared, just talking about myself really, but I had not yet stepped foot inside my classroom, so a day to familiarize myself with my room and set things up according to my preferences was necessary. I arrived about 20 minutes early in order to be introduced by my head teacher (who I had met once) to the principal and vice principal. This involved some bowing, smiling, use of my limited Korean (Hello, nice to meet you), and listening to them talk in Korean. The vice principal didn’t have much to say. The principal, after getting the basic information, asked about my long hair and beard (which I picked up from gestures and my head teacher’s nervous laughter), which my head teacher attributed to my being a musician. This seemed to be a satisfactory response, because I never heard anything else about my appearance (we had heard of at least one school that forced its native English teacher to shave in order to be more presentable).

After this, we went to a meeting for all the teachers that lasted about 25 minutes. For 24 of those minutes, I focused on not yawning while I followed a meeting I could not comprehend. At some point, I was introduced by my head teacher and I stood up and said a few words (in English, but slowly) – nice to meet you, happy to be here, etc. After this, we went to an assembly of all the students and teachers. I was placed in the middle of a line of teachers, which then moved to the front of the assembly. Once we were in front of the students, our names were called one by one, and each teacher stepped forward and bowed to the students (to varying degrees of applause, based on their apparent popularity as teachers). I spent the five minutes up front intently listening for my name amidst the rapid Korean, and was very proud that I successfully stepped forward and bowed at the right time.

The rest of the day was spent in my room, known as the English Café. My classroom actually has its own wing of the school – there are no other rooms around mine, which is nice because it means less traffic (and yelling, running, banging on walls, etc.) by my door throughout the day. It also means that I have less interaction with other teachers than those of us who, like Tera, have a desk in a teacher’s office. This is definitely preferable for me. There are only a couple teachers at my school that have English skills at a conversational level, so when I do interact with other teachers, it mostly involves smiling, bowing, and moving on. Even when I have conversations, it takes a lot of effort because of constant active listening, guessing at meaning and pronunciation, and choosing simple vocabulary to form my responses. In addition, my last job (cleaning houses) entailed little to no personal interaction, so I am accustomed to working in silence and solitude. In general, the more silence and solitude in my workday, the better (the one exception in my employment history was when I worked as a server at Rainforest Café – I usually enjoyed the controlled chaos there).

I really like my room. There is plenty of space – my typical class is about 35-36 students, and they fit comfortably. There are large windows along each wall, allowing natural light in, with one side also having shades. I have a big screen TV which is hooked up to my computer, and which is touch screen capable (with a magic pen). I also have a sliding whiteboard and all the supplies I need. The back of the room is half sectioned off for a small “room within a room” and a library of English books. Though only one student so far has actually requested a book, there is a great selection to choose from, including some shorter classic works of literature, classic young adult books (of which I have been catching up on), a variety of young adult series (Goosebumps, Magic Tree House, Arthur, Narnia, etc.), just about everything by Roald Dahl, and a bevy of books with instruction on English grammar, vocabulary, and usage.

The back of my room

The front of my room

I am fortunate to have my own room. The majority of teachers have a desk in one of the teachers’ offices and travel to their classroom by period. This is one of many differences in how schools are run here as opposed to my experience in Pennsylvania and Tennessee. Here is a list, surely not comprehensive, of others:

-          If there is a change to the schedule on a particular day, it is common to find out about it when that change actually happens, and if you’re lucky, maybe a day in advance. For whatever reason, there is little priority placed on alerting others of a change of plans (because I know in some cases the plans were made in advance, just not communicated). A common mantra for us American teachers here is Be Flexible. You never know when you might arrive to school expecting to have a period to prepare before your first class, only to discover that you have an English pop song singing contest in your room during that time, and you are helping to judge it (as happened to me this week).

-          One of the biggest initial shocks for me was the respect shown to teachers. Teaching is a highly regarded profession in Korea, and well paid to boot (imagine that!). There is an inherent respect built into the culture (down to the structure of the language) for those older than you, and especially teachers. The word for teacher,  선생님 (sunsengnim), can also be added to the end of the name of somebody who is of higher social standing than you, whether or not they are a teacher, in order to show additional respect (it amounts to an admission that you can learn from them). My students are still typical middle schoolers, and act like it, but there is a broad acceptance of teachers as authorities that is often lacking in American schools.

-          Another big shock for me was the habitual tardiness that, as one teacher told me, is just how it is. There is a ten minute break between classes. When the bell rings to start a new period, I usually need at least a couple minutes before all the students are there and settled down. This is because they are accustomed to starting class a couple minutes after the bell rings. I know this because I have stepped out to the hallway after the bell has rung, and about 30 seconds afterwards is when the teachers leave their office to walk to their classroom. There is no good reason for it, but class just starts a little late. Try to keep a class for fifteen seconds after the period is over, however, and you will hear cries of lament that the bell has rung.

-          Speaking of the bell, it is not a bell tone, but a short 10 second melody. A melody that I will be hearing in my sleep in about two months.

-          In Korea it is customary to remove one’s shoes upon entering a home, or certain traditional restaurants, because the floor was, and still is, traditionally used for much more than walking on (see an earlier post about the ondol heating system). For some reason, schools are the same way, despite the fact that the floor is definitely not heated. So everybody wears “slippers” all day, or what we would be more likely to call sandals. You would think that taking shoes off at the door would keep things clean inside, but everybody wears their sandals when walking outside to get to the cafeteria and back, so the floors are just as dirty as if everybody wore their shoes. Practically speaking, there is no reason to wear sandals all day. But we do.

-          Up until this past week, I have also worn my coat all day, everyday, because very little of the school is heated. The teachers’ offices have big electric heaters, but the classrooms and hallways are not much warmer than outside, including the classroom in which I spend all day. Once I grew accustomed to the idea, it was not an issue; I just wore my coat all day and started wearing two pairs of socks to keep my feet warm. But I realize this way of doing things is an affront to the typical American sensibility.

-          An additional point related to temperature is the fact that buildings in Korea often do not have a central air system, so Koreans are big on letting fresh air inside by leaving windows and doors open, no matter what the temperature is outside. Again, it’s just how they do things; no better or worse, just different. Though the American in me considers it odd to wear a coat all day at work and still be cold, I also understand the value of saving energy by not heating the hallways and breathing fresh air.

-          Student discipline in Korea looks much different than in the US. Until very recently, there were little to no rules on what teachers could or could not do for discipline. Physical punishment is still acceptable, though it will likely be phased out in the near future (Seoul just outlawed it last year, and what Seoul does usually trickles down to the rest of the country). I have seen students thwacked with a stick, flicked in the head, and had nails dug into their scalp, but this is by no means common – this was all from just one teacher, and happened mainly to one particular class. Other teachers have less fearful, more creative tactics, such as having students stand in the back of the room, sometimes with their hands raised, for an indefinite time. A lot of teachers still carry a stick, though they may not use it for thwacking students, so they can quiet a noisy class by banging it on a desk.

-          For teachers in the USA, this last difference may be the biggest shock of all. Guess who cleans the classrooms, hallways, stairwells, and grounds of the school? Not a janitor. Not the teachers. The students clean. Twice a day. After lunch and again before the last period, small groups of students are assigned to each area of the school to clean for about 10 minutes. In my classroom they vacuum, steam mop, clean glass surfaces, wipe down desks, pick up trash, and mop the hallway. The first time it happened I felt like I was in an episode of the Twilight Zone. I just watched in amazement. It is perhaps my favorite thing about the school system here, because it eliminates the need for a janitor, teaches kids discipline and cleaning skills (in case they are missing those at home), and instills a sense of responsibility in the appearance and upkeep of the school itself.

I could write more about the actual work of teaching (I’ve found the job to naturally be a very self-reflective activity), but since this post is hella long already, I will save some of my thoughts for future posts.

The English teachers of Buk Middle School

Important purchases

I finished reading The Road, by Cormac McCarthy, last week. Some of you may have read it already or seen the movie. For variety’s sake, I will write this post in the style of The Road.

It’s been cold, gray and rainy. We’ve eaten some food. We walked a lot, then slept. When we woke up it was gray. Tera asked, When will we eat again? I said, Soon. How do you know? I just do. Ok. Ok.

(Alright, just kidding. I will not post in that style. That would be ridiculous. However, as an aside, The Road is some good writing, entirely depressing and hopeful at the same time, and oddly affecting in the contrast that it presents between the world of the novel and the current one. Read it.)

We have made some important purchases the last couple of weeks. Including:

Tera has joined the ranks of the bespectacled. We were sitting in class one day and a professor turned on the video screen to show a PowerPoint. Tera turned to me and said, “He really needs to focus the screen. How is anybody supposed to read that?” After which I laughed and said, “Ok, you need glasses,” because the screen was not out of focus at all. I laughed because this was exactly how I realized I needed glasses, way back in the 4th grade — sitting in class, copying my neighbor’s notes because I couldn’t read the board.

So we went to a department store with an optical section and attempted to communicate her need for an exam and glasses. The man gave us an exasperated look for a while, then communicated to us to come back with a Korean friend to translate. This we did a few days later, and now Tera has a new face. We opted for the cheapest line of glasses available, which fortunately also happened to be the only pair that fit her well. Total cost for the exam, frames, and lenses: about $42. And the lenses were cut on the spot in 10 minutes. Needless to say, we will be stocking up on glasses before we leave Korea.

Tera's new face

The awesome Korean kitsch on the sides of Tera's glasses

Another purchase since our last posting is a cell phone. We decided to share a phone to save money, and because practically the only time we will be apart, during work hours, we will be able to communicate online. We were in full agreement to spring for the cheapest plan with the most basic phone. Up to this point, we had done our best to avoid the denigration of the English language known as texting, the persistent and pernicious intrusion known as mobile entertainment, and the massive generation of unnecessary waste obfuscated under the various names of technological improvement, convenience, connectedness, and capitalism. (In short, we do not want the latest phone.) Of course, you see where this is going.

We had another “welcome to Korea” moment when we asked to see their most basic phone and we were handed a smart phone. We asked for a non-smart phone (a stupid phone?) and found out that it would be nigh impossible for us to find one of those anymore. So now, like everyone else in this country, we have a slick touch-screen phone with apps, internet, GPS, camera, and, most importantly, Fruit Ninja. When you’re waiting for the bus or train, and you know you have an indeterminately short amount of time, what better way to pass it than by slicing fruit in half with your finger?

This picture captures some of the frustration of the phone buying process

Our new phone and the free ramen that came with it

Probably the most solid financial investment we have ever made occurred last week in Seoul when we purchased Settlers of Catan. For the uninitiated, Catan is the best board game ever made. It is the perfect mix of strategy and luck, and the game’s design causes the board to be different every time. We have spent countless hours playing on our friend Brandon’s board in Nashville, so we felt confident that buying this board would pay lifelong dividends of fun. And the Korean version looks awesome because it has more intricate artwork.

I should mention another purchase that was important, though not recent. Our second weekend here I bought a guitar in Seoul. I did not bring a guitar here in the interest of packing light, but also because I was not enamored with any of the guitars I owned. Before leaving I actually ended up selling an old acoustic, my twelve-string, and my classical after years of neglect. That leaves me with my similarly neglected electric, and my main squeeze the past 8 years, an acoustic-electric Alvarez. The Alvarez is a decent guitar, but I’ve always wanted a guitar that I loved.

Anyway, I had planned to pick up (no pun intended) a cheap guitar for the duration of our stay here, which I then might keep or sell before moving. Just something to tide me over, in a sense. I found prices here to be comparable to prices stateside, and I quickly realized that I didn’t want anything under $300 (made in China). I wanted a Korean-made guitar, not only to contribute to the local economy, but because the reputation of Korean brands is apparently increasing. Korea was and still is a destination for some companies to have their bottom end brands manufactured, but many indigenous companies are making a name for themselves with some quality instruments.

I tried a lot of different guitars and brands, from low end to high end, but ended up liking a low end Crafter the most. It has been several weeks now, and I am very happy about it (I don’t think I can call it my love yet). It sounds great and has a bright tone. Actually, I like it much more than my Alvarez, so it is coming with me.

(Side note: I have never haggled before. I attempted to haggle at the guitar shop and failed miserably. The price was 330,000 won (about $330); I countered with 300,000, and even cited seeing the same model in an adjacent shop for 290,000 [that guitar did not sound nearly as good, though]. He lowered the price, more than a bit insultingly I’m sure, to 328,000 firm. Oh well.)

My Crafter in its corner

In other news, we have graduated from TESOL, and we’re in the midst of our first week of teaching. First impressions will be forthcoming. At the end of TESOL we had a closing ceremony (opening and closing ceremonies are important here) with the 13 English teachers and 5 instructors, including a banner the size of the room and much giving of tiny plants. It was about as awkward as it sounds.

This banner was so big I couldn't photograph it all at once

Tera and the instructors assemble for the official photographer

After 120 hours, I got this piece of paper

We have been to Seoul Anglican Church a total of four times now. Despite the commute, we have settled on going there whilst in Korea. We take the subway there, about two hours each way, so it costs about $10 round trip for both of us. The commute is actually relaxing. We usually read and nap most of the way. And we spend the afternoon exploring Seoul a little at a time. Consequently, Saturday has become our day of rest.

The congregation has been very welcoming. It is a diverse group, and everyone is in Korea for different reasons, and for varying lengths of time; but we are united in our desire to worship and fellowship in a familiar language. Two Sundays ago, we were honored to have the presiding bishop of the Episcopal church, Katharine Jefferts Schori, preside and preach at our service. She was on a tour of Asia, and visited the cathedral because it is the largest Anglican church in Korea. However, it was nice of her to also take some time to be with our little English-speaking group (which doubled in size on account of her visit).

In other news:

- There is a variety of orange grown only on Jeju Island, a small island off the south coast of Korea, that is twice as good as any orange I have had before. They cost about three times what a normal imported orange costs, and they’re worth it.

- We tried persimmons for the first time this week. They’re good, not great.

- We’ve realized that our daily and weekly routine will include a lot of time for reading, so for the first time we are keeping track of the books we read. Tera set an arbitrary goal of 50 books this year, but I think we will both easily surpass that.

- My appearance is rather unusual for many Koreans. My hair is long and I have facial hair, both of which are perceived as slovenly (the only Korean men we have seen with long hair and/or facial hair are homeless). I am excused because I am a foreigner, but they still don’t understand why I would do such a thing. I also get laughs when I say that I like to cook sometimes.

- I have played a couple of pickup basketball games with Thomas and some Korean high schoolers, the first time I’ve played in about 7 years. It was a lot of fun, despite how rusty my game was.

 

-Michael

Rice is great if you’re really hungry and want to eat two thousand of something. – Mitch Hedberg

You may have gathered from the title that this will be a long, over-due post concerning our thoughts on food in Korea. If you did, you are correct. For fear of not being able to write in cohesive paragraphs, I will highlight our major (although many) thoughts on food in S. Korea through the use of bullets. Please be cautioned that this is not a comprehensive list.

  • Despite our frustrations the first 2.5 weeks stemming from not being able to cook, our frustrations were simply that: we were not able to cook. Eating out in S. Korea is incredibly inexpensive – an aspect of Korea that originates (obviously) from how their economy works. S. Korea does an excellent job of supplying work for their 55 million citizens in a country the size of Indiana. Their system is set-up to encourage people to eat out, in turn supporting jobs. Thus, cooking at home costs just as much (if not more) as eating out. On any given day, we can walk along our neighborhood and choose from a plethora of delicious local eateries, some charging as little as 2700 won a meal (less than $3). If we are feeling a bit more wealthy, we opt for a 4500 – 6000 won meal. Just to be clear, these meals are quite filling, most coming with a main course, as well as side dishes and a seaweed or clear broth soup.
  • Ramen noodles are kind of a big deal here. Case in point, after signing our phone contract yesterday, the LG clerk handed us a 5-pack of spicy Ramen. I would like to think that we were just in the right place at the right time, but outside stacks of Ramen were displayed on LG’s promotional table. Either that, or it was their charity event and we looked hungry.
  • We have not seen any Koreans eating on the go – not on the street, not in their car,etc, which is refreshing.
  • I have noticed that Koreans are incredibly efficient at everything they do. For instance, their pancakes are self-sufficient, as they contain the syrup in the middle. This finally eliminates that “pour the syrup over the pancakes” step!

Korean "pancakes"

  • On Wednesday night, Michael and I tried Slow Food, a restaurant that specializes in tasty porridge dishes. The porridge is made from rice cooked using a – yep, you guessed it – slow process and 6-7 times the amount of water. The finished product is a nourishing, easy to digest base for a variety of porridge. Michael chose the Spicy Bulgogi  (beef) porridge, and I opted for the vegetable porridge. Both were delicious!

Spicy beef porridge -- aka Korean gumbo

Vegetable porridge

  • Koreans love consuming seafood, and this is shown by the street-tanks of fresh crab, shrimp, creature from the black lagoon, etc, that are found in different parts of town. The least appetizing are the sea worms that are sold to be eaten – sometimes while still alive. I will not describe what I think they look like, as it involves the word “flaccid.”

Checking out the live seafood that could quickly become dinner

  • Another not weird/wrong but “different” food that you can eat here is fish paste, made with leftover fish scraps that are ground, thinly rolled-out, and cut into triangles. Although it sounds delicious, I have not been able to bring myself to try it. Another popular side dish is made by boiling the skull or feet of a cow, letting the liquid congeal, and then cutting the gelatinous product into squares. Think of it like Jell-o, without the fruity flavor.
  • In addition to street tanks, grocery stores here also have large sections of fresh seafood – much of it very inexpensive. For instance, take the picture of the sushi selection below. Each individual sushi was about 40 cents, and the large platter was about $7. My friend Melanie would go crazy for the sushi deals here.

Sushi selection at a local supermarket

About $7 for this package. Quit drooling, Melanie.

  • Although we enjoy Korean food, sometimes we get a craving for a different palate. This usually translates to us going out for pizza at one of the many pizza venues in our area. We have found a couple of places that are comparable to American pizza, yet there is one drawback: under no circumstance can you ask for a variation of a menu item –  at all. Lotte Mart: No, you cannot have a regular cheese pizza, you must choose from these three varieties: potato-bacon and pineapple-y icing pizza, sweet potato puree pizza, or sausage,ham, and Lord-knows-what-else pizza. Pizza school: You can have chicken finger pizza, shrimp pizza, pepperoni pizza, cheese pizza – -What? You would like half cheese, half pepperoni? Absolutely not. 59 Pizza: Sure you can have a plain, unadorned cheese pizza, but we’re gonna have to put corn on it…
  • Which leads me to my next bullet: Corn has had the good fortune of becoming a condiment here. On pizzas, corn. In mashed sweet potatoes, corn. I ordered a toasted egg and hashbrown sandwich that was delicious until, CRUNCH! Corn. This would explain why we still don’t know how to ask how much an item is, but we can say, “No corn, please” without flaw.

Egg and hashbrown sandwich...oh yeah, with corn

  • Yes, rice is consumed at every meal – but we love it. Brown rice has still not caught on, but we found some at the grocery store down the street. I read that brown rice is beginning to be purchased more frequently due to health concerns. An interesting fact for you: The average American eats about 25 lbs of rice per year, while the average Asian eats about 300 lbs of rice per year.
  • I feel it should be mentioned the deep disappointment that we felt when we realized all of the the fast food venues that we so vehemently opposed in the states were right outside our doorstep in Korea. Although we like Korean cuisine overall – very little meat is consumed, there is much emphasis on veggies and whole grains – we realize that no country is perfect. A glimmer of hope: Not too long after the degradation of the American diet (fast food) was introduced, Korea noticed that more of their citizens waistbands were expanding. Enter street exercise equipment, usually fixed along walking areas and in playgrounds. I’ll admit that the first time I saw one of these I thought that it was a pretty lame playground. But after learning the story, I am pleased that steps were taken to improve the health of the people. Perhaps one day a correlation will be made between the increased weight and the arrival of fast food.
  • While Korea’s national dish is kimchi – a special dish of spicy fermented cabbage or radish – we prefer bibimbap. Don’t get us wrong, kimchi is fine (I prefer the radish kind), but because it is served as a side with each meal, the taste grows old. With bibimbap, however, it would prove difficult to find a more satisfying dish.  Imagine different veggies (meat or tofu is optional) perfectly placed in their own designated sections atop a large bowl of rice, waiting for the fateful moment when chopsticks will mix them all together. Next, envision a fried egg placed on top of the veggies and rice. Then, dream up a small bowl of hot chili paste placed next to that beautiful set-up. Can it get any better? Yes it can! Dolsot bibimbap: everything you pictured above, placed into a hot stone bowl (dolsot actually stands for “stone pot”). The rice on the bottom gets a tad crispy – putting this dish over the top. Words can’t describe…I hope this picture gives it some justice.

Dolsot bibimbap

An example of the ever-present side dish: kimchi

  • I thought I would end with a description of our favorite treat that we have found in Korea. Red Bean Pastries, sold hot by street vendors, are small, delicious pancake-like rounds filled with a slightly-sweet red bean paste. They’re sold 10 for 2000 won, and its all I can do to keep Michael from buying them each time we walk past the vendor. A side note: I was calling them red bean pasties (thinking of the British wording of pastry) until Michael informed me of what pasties are in the states. I’m not sure how he knew what they were and I didn’t, but I’m not asking questions.

    Ooh, those delicious red bean pastries

    - Tera

Magpies and ‘mericans

Today is Sunday, and we were planning on going back to Seoul Anglican Church, but we overslept. I woke up three hours after the time our alarm was set for with the phone in my hand, but neither of us remembered waking up when the alarms went off. So thus far we have had a very relaxing day in our apartment.

That’s right, our apartment. We have not mentioned on this blog yet, but our first two weeks here were spent in a dorm room, as we waited for the previous batch of teachers to move out of the on-campus apartments. The dorm itself was not bad (though there were two long nights when a youth camp stayed on our floor), but two things made the situation worse: the lack of a kitchen (see the Seattle post), so that we had to eat out for nearly every meal, and the temporariness of our setting (why unpack anything for just two weeks?). On Thursday we finally got to move into our apartment. We will only be here for the next six months (at which time a new batch of teachers will be arriving), but it gives us a chance to settle in.

Jeff showing us our new apartment

We have done some serious nesting the past three days. We finally unpacked the suitcases we have lived out of the past six weeks, we cleaned and organized as best as we could, we had two big shopping trips (mostly for groceries), and after two very cold nights, bought a space heater.

Side note about the heat: Korea is not far removed from a traditional culture that slept on the floor, ate on the floor (with a low table), and lounged on the floor. These practices are still common in Korea. Because of this, they developed a heating system called ondol (온돌), which means underfloor heating. Back in the day, this meant burning a fire in a stove and channeling the smoke underneath a raised masonry floor and out of a chimney on the other side. Today, this means coils and gas are used to heat the underside of the floor. It is an efficient system (heat rises), and of course it is great to get out of bed in the morning and step onto a heated floor. However, in our building the heat is controlled centrally, so we cannot control the heat in our room (unless we run the hot water for a while), and I think it is turned off at night. Also, we have a large, Western-style bed in our bedroom. If we were sleeping on mats on the floor, the heat would feel great. But since we are on a mattress, which is on a wooden frame, which covers most of the total area of the floor, the ondol is not efficient in our bedroom. So now we have a little space heater.

Side note about the side note: There are two knobs on our heater, which is electric and shaped like a typical oscillating fan. One of the knobs controlled whether the coils were turned on or not, and I could not figure out what the other knob was for. I just found out what it is for, and you may not believe the reason for it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_death.

Last night we cooked our first meal here in Korea, and it was awesome. We made sweet potato and carrot curry, steamed baby bok choy with garlic, and cherry tomatoes with a miso, plum vinegar, and sesame seed dressing (by the way, when I say “we made,” what I mean is Tera planned the meal and did the majority of the cooking, while I did prep work and cooked the rice…just to be clear about who the real chef is). Our new friends Thomas and Bethany came over and we had a great time eating and talking (another quick side note: Koreans typically do not talk over a meal as much as we do, and certainly do not linger afterwards to talk, which I find both unusual and disappointing). Afterwards, our other new friend Amanda came by and we all played Dutch Blitz (yes, we have successfully propagated Dutch Blitz in Korea). I think being able to show hospitality, more than unpacking or nesting, has made it feel like home.

Cooking for the first time in Korea

As part of our lazy Sunday, I was able to observe a couple of black-billed magpies from our balcony on the fifth floor. They were foraging on the ground and in the low branches of trees for supplies to build their nest, located at the top of a tall tree. It appears that they are reusing an old nest, because they are well along in the construction process, and magpies don’t usually start building until February, with a typical nest taking 40-50 days to complete. They are probably just patching it up, making it nice again, and, well, nesting. Just like we are. For those who wonder why I have developed an interest in birding (aka birdwatching), here is one of many reasons. We have moved to Korea with the expectation of learning about a new culture, and hopefully learning from it as well. Obviously, Korea has been here all along, so I have had the opportunity to learn about it and from it my entire life. I just haven’t taken the time and effort to do so until now. Likewise, I have had avian neighbors my entire life, and could have learned about and from them, but never took the time and effort to do so. (I am writing specifically about birds, and generally about nature.) At the risk of stretching this analogy too far, I expect to leave Korea a changed person in many ways, due to the influence of new people and ideas. Likewise, I expect to learn from our neighbors the magpies, as well as any other neighbors we come across, how to live more gracefully in this world.

Other notes from the past week:

-TESOL has still been tedious, but we had our first two teaching practices, which are short ten minute snippets of a lesson taught in front of our peers. It was very helpful to “break the ice” of teaching, and to be able to get feedback on your style and practices.

-I finally got a haircut last night. My hair was longer than it had ever been, and it was out of control. Growing it out was somewhat of an experiment. I liked it up to a certain length, but it is also more of a hassle. Now it is back to usual. Tera did an awesome job cutting it, by the way.

Before

After

-Lastly, please pray for my father. He received news that the cancer in his liver has returned, so tomorrow he goes in for a procedure known as chemoembolization (http://www.caring4cancer.com/go/liver/treatments/embolization-for-liver-cancer.htm). Fortunately, it is a quick procedure, and the side effects are very minimal compared to other treatment options. Pray that the operation will be successful and that the peace of God will guard his heart and mind in Christ Jesus throughout this process.

-Michael

Happy Monday

I thought about beginning this post with “Annyeong haseyo,” the English transliteration of the typical Korean greeting, as a sign of our immersion and gradual understanding of Korean culture, but instead I’ll just tell you: we are (somewhat) immersed in the culture, are slowly beginning to understand a bit of it (but definitely not the language), and at this point we are still ambivalent about it all. Call this the self-aware introduction.

The past week we have finished our initial orientation and begun TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) training. TESOL will take up the rest of the month, six hours a day of classroom instruction, after which we will be certified. We were not aware that this class would give us a formal certification, so that was a pleasant discovery upon arrival. It means that if we want to do this kind of thing ever again, we will not only have experience, but also credentials. That being said, TESOL is not the most exciting way to spend 120 hours, especially when the content is something you already took a class on years ago (in my case). But the instructors are all good teachers, and it will definitely be helpful once we start teaching.

Our evenings have not been especially eventful, but we have enjoyed getting to know our fellow expatriates in the program, as well as the Koreans we have met thus far. That is why I say we are only somewhat immersed at this point — most of our day is spent around fellow Americans. Doing mundane activities, like going out to eat and shopping for groceries, is still novel, and we are still learning where things are at and how to get there. It is a fun and frustrating process. I think the biggest challenge for me has been not being able to read. I can sound out and pronounce Korean words, but there is no comprehension or immediate recognition. So I must rely on English translations (which are usually lacking) or pictures/symbols in order to know what an item is on a menu, or what a building contains, or what is inside a package at the grocery store, etc.

Last Sunday we attended a Korean Nazarene church  on campus. If you have ever attended a church in a foreign language, you know about how we felt. It is a good thing to experience from time to time, for several reasons: it exposes you to the way other cultures do church; it stretches you socially as you attempt to communicate with your brothers and sisters across a language barrier; it helps in realizing the global/universal nature of the Church; it also helps in realizing how important participation is in worship; and you become attuned to the non-verbal and non-intellectual aspects of the worship service (unfortunately, in many evangelical churches these aspects are nearly non-existent). However, it is also usually boring, because you have no idea what is being said. We had headphones with a translator, but  he was sick that day and often cleared his throat and coughed into his transmitter (and had trouble keeping pace with the speaker), so it was unbearable to listen to.

So we did some research and found an Anglican church in Seoul that has a service in English. It was important for us to find an Anglican church, so that even if it was in Korean, we would know what was going on and being said (because Anglicans worldwide use a common form of worship). Finding a service in English was an added blessing. So yesterday we made the trip to Seoul (about 90 minutes transit time if you take the normal train) and attended the Anglican church. It is a very diverse group, including people from Korea, India, England, Canada, USA, Australia, and Switzerland there yesterday, but English was the common language of us all. It was a good time, and we got to meet several people, including going out to lunch with another couple. I think we will try to make it to that church as often as we can, knowing some weeks we may not feel like making such a commute.

Afterwards, we spent the rest of the day in Seoul. It is a huge city — depending on your source, it is anywhere from the 2nd to the 4th most populous in the world, and somewhere around 6th in population density. So we saw a very small part of Seoul, but it was fun to explore. Since we plan on making the trip regularly, we did not feel pressure to see and do as much as we could, which was nice. I think Seoul will have its own post sometime soon.

Another highlight from this week was our trip to a local Buddhist temple last Monday. The temple is situated at the top of a small mountain that overlooks Cheonan, and is famous for its very large statue of a sitting Buddha. The setting and architecture were beautiful. We were also able to briefly observe Buddhist worship, which was a new experience for us.

The main temple building

The Cheonan Six - the latest batch of teachers

Colorful paper lanterns hung for the lunar new year

The giant Buddha, pictured with us for comparison

By the way, we just got back from our Super Bowl party. I watched the first quarter as it happened live (8:30am our time) before going to class. At 4:30 a group of teachers and TESOL instructors gathered to watch it from NFL Sunday Ticket in one of the classrooms (I think we all managed to successfully avoid FB, Twitter, and news sites that would spoil the ending that day). I was so glad that the TESOL people planned the gathering, because the Super Bowl is one of my favorite holidays. The rebroadcast did not have the commercials or halftime show, but the game was plenty of entertainment. Fairly well-played for both offenses, average game for both defenses, great finish. Unfortunately, Eli “I do not agree with the whole drafting system, I will only play for a team if I want to” Manning came out on top ( that’s right, I still dislike him because of the 2004 soap opera), which means the moral of the story is: “If you do not get your way, pout about it until you do get your way. Then you will win two Super Bowls.”

-Michael

 

***We have updated the “About” section of this blog to include our Skype info and mailing address.

We made it

Today marks day four in S. Korea. Here are a few experiences and thoughts about our time here:

We arrived in Seoul about 6pm on Wednesday. If you ever make the trip, I strongly recommend springing for the Korean Airline for a few reasons. 1. The Korean flight attendants have pretty cool outfits in beige and light blue. They are also extremely kind and helpful. I would almost try to become one if not for my flight-phobia and the whole not-Korean thing. 2. You are pampered with slippers, thick blankets, free wine, and all the documentaries you could ask for. 3. The Bibimbap is excellent.

After going through immigration and receiving our luggage, we met four other new teachers at the airport, along with two of our Korean helpers. We were then taken to the airport KFC for dinner. Yes, you read that correctly, KFC. I dined on cheese fries and an egg tart on the bus ride to Cheonan. Please stop laughing.

Cheonan is incredibly cold right now. Upon arriving at KNU, we were told to be careful of the ice covering the sidewalks. I promptly slipped, nearly taking down Michael with me. I now have a bruise the size of Korea on my, well, you get the idea.  Our health insurance kicks in soon.

On Thursday morning we were taken to the local hospital for a few health tests to get our alien registration cards.  After learning our ht, wt, bp, a host of other abbreviations and whether or not we are color blind, our Korean friend gave us paper cups and asked each of us, “please take your pees.” We were quite happy once the tests were done and were rewarded with our first authentic Korean meal – delicious!

I’m nearly certain that 50 percent of the songs I hear are simply Cher singing in Korean.

Rice milk is nowhere to be found here. After countless searches and asking sales associates for “ooyoo pap” only to recieve blank stares, Dr. Han told us that S. Korea does not have it. I’ve debated crossing the border and checking if our northern friends carry it.

Most of Friday did not feel like my Birthday. For one, Michael and I lost a day of our life in the flight, and two, none of our friends were around to celebrate. However, Jenny Kim made me feel special at lunch by taking all of us to an American buffet called Ashley’s. She also placed large purple polka dot mouse ears on my head and placed a waffle in front of me before the table sang “Happy Birthday.” There are many things about Korea that we have yet to understand. At dinner that night, a veteran teacher surprised me with a beautiful cake from Paris Baguette (a very popular european-style bakery here) and we all went bowling and got coffee. It was a nice way to combine an old tradition with completely new surroundings.

Waffles and coffee are, for some reason, pretty big here. Instead of seeing tea shops everywhere, as I envisioned, we are surrounded by coffee shops. Even after Korean meals, some restaurants bring you a little cup of Korean coffee – a very instant, sweet tasting coffee.

Everywhere we go, the bus, the mall, walking down the street, etc, Michael and I receive stares. These stares are never subtle, and I have begun to grow very self-conscious. Even while waiting in line for coffee on Friday, the teenager in front of me kept turning around to look at me. The city in which we live, though it has 700,000 people, does not see many Americans. I am told that if we visit Seoul, we will not be celebrities, as Seoul is used to many foreigners.

So far, Michael and I are doing well. We do not love Korea, nor do we hate it. Currently, we have a feeling of indifference. This feeling is difficult for me, because I am typically hot or cold. The language is incredibly hard, and we are trying to learn the bus system with maps that are not in English, but we are excited by these challenges. I also have feelings of being alone. Not on a social level, or a feeling of being homesick, but a heightened awareness of ourselves as foreigners. Please pray for us as we adjust to our surroundings and as we begin our TESOL course. We will be busy in the month of February with our course, but we will try to talk, write and update as much as we can with our schedule and limited access to a computer. We will get our laptops the beginning of March, so we thank everyone for their patience. We miss you all.

-Tera

 

 

Some unorganized thoughts on Seattle

Tomorrow we fly to Seoul, but before then here are some thoughts on Seattle.

We arrived in Seattle on Saturday afternoon after two uneventful flights. That morning was our final goodbye to Nashville and the people (and cat) that are very dear to us there. Leaving has been a bittersweet process for us, but obviously a necessary one. We will miss our family, friends, and the places we have come to love and be familiar with. However, we are excited about what lies ahead, and the people and places we have yet to meet.

So we had a heavy lunch (bluemoonburgers.com) shortly after checking in to our B&B on Saturday, and by dinner time we were not yet hungry, but due to the restrictions on a Groupon we had purchased, we had to use it for dinner. After looking over the small yet interesting menu (americanaseattle.com), we both realized that the sauteed Brussels sprouts were the item that most appealed to us. At that point it hit home how much we have missed cooking the past month. When you eat out, it is often hard to find vegetables that are cooked well. Since we have been eating out a lot, therefore, we have not eaten very much in the way of fruits and vegetables, and we have had much heavier meals than is typical for us. This change in diet has directly affected the way we have felt the past month. We will fully appreciate our kitchen once we are settled in Korea. The Brussels sprouts were excellent, by the way.

Pike Place Market is a public market featuring nine acres of local businesses, many of them small specialty shops. This was our favorite destination. They are known for having a seafood vendor that throws their customers’ orders from one employee to another, whether it is a small bag of scallops or a whole King salmon. We didn’t order anything, but we were standing there waiting for somebody else to order something long enough for a kind employee to throw a 20 lb. salmon for our amusement. It was even more exciting than I anticipated.

Some other places we visited: Capitol Hill neighborhood (where we stayed), waterfront (seems like an area just waiting to be overdeveloped), EMP Museum (a Jimi Hendrix tribute that has evolved into a music, sci-fi, and pop culture museum — very cool), and the central public library (amazing modern architecture and great attention to detail).

Random thoughts: Seattle has a reputation for having a great coffee shop/bookstore culture. This we found to be true. Seattle also has a reputation for being environmentally conscious and health conscious. This we did not find to be true. Granted, we were restricted to the downtown area, but we walked everywhere we went, and we were very surprised to find Seattle to be the dirtiest city we have seen in America (simply in terms of litter on the street). This is especially contradictory due to the fact that recycling and composting have become culturally institutionalized here. In a similar way, we were surprised to find that approximately 9 out of 10 Seattlites are smokers (a facetiously estimated statistic). Again, this seems to directly contradict the fact that non-industrial food and walking/biking have become culturally institutionalized here. We have some theories…But needless to say, our pure, idealistic vision of Seattle has been removed. On the other hand, Tera has come up with a bumper sticker idea that just might make us rich:

Seattle: Home of the Healthiest Smokers.

If you ever visit Seattle, the 11th Ave. Bed & Breakfast is a great place to stay. Very hospitable, delicious breakfast, and within walking distance to most attractions. Also, be sure to visit Pike Place Chowder (www.pikeplacechowder.com) to get some super good chowder.

-Michael

10 days before arrival

Well, we are 10 days from our arrival in Korea. We just got back in Nashville after two weeks of visiting family, logging approximately 2700 miles in the Oldsmobile. This week will be a chance to tie up loose ends in Nashville, spend time with friends, and take a deep breath before we begin our new jobs…in a new country…in a new culture…in a new language…with new acquaintances.

- Michael

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